Driving Days
Leave Dawson City today. Destination tonight is Whitehorse so quite a long drive today. We go via Carmacks. Spent half an hour or so looking around at the First Nation Interpretive Centre. Quite a long drive day with couple of rest stops en route. Arrived at Whitehorse at approximately 6.30 p.m. Noel bought some hardware for the CD/radio so it doesn’t fall out again on rough roads. This has now happened a couple of times so something more permanent and a stronger than normal installation needs to be done. Mr Fix It then spent the next period of time buying materials needed for the job, in the process of repair work being carried out, a vital screw and associated driver was dropped; despite much searching and totally dismantling the dashboard it was never to be seen again. So back to the hardware store and bought another plus dinner. Back to Ronnie, all fixed and back together. But just to make life difficult the headlight switch fell off so another half an hour spent fixing it and gluing it back into place. One could say a long day with a few frustrations – but everything working at the end. A couple of reds did not go astray with dinner this evening. WiFi is obtained easily tonight with the assistance of Noel’s home made 15 foot high aerial which was erected outside Ronnie!!!
Some significant mileage undertaken over the next couple of days. After leaving Whitehorse the destination was Watsons Lake, some of route home is the same as route out. En route to Watsons Lake via a Scenic diversion, stopped at Carcross which is the point to the north of Skagway that the perilous White Pass Railway traversed to the relatively flat country to the north and the gold Fields and paddlewheeler transport.
http://www.railsnorth.com/wpyr.htm
After overnighting at Watsons Lake, another big drive day on Highway 37. We backtracked 20 kays along the Alcan and south on the Cassia Highway #37. Road was very bumpy and poor in places but then leveled out. After covering approximately 300 kays we overnighted off road beside a quite large air strip. We watched a light plane arrive and take off; it was a Britten Norman Islander. The barbecue came out, was ignited and some rather nice steaks found their way to our dinner plates this evening tenderized in a plastic bag with a hammer from the tool box.
We were 139 kays short of an “area” called Meziadon Junction; Just a name and a sign post.
Stewart BC/Hyder, Alaska
Another day spent mostly driving to Stewart, destination is Hyder which is further down the west coast, but just over into Alaska. Hyder is located on the panhandle just south of Juneau. Driving on 37A here, and what scenery, it is described as The Drive of the Province (BC), passing the huge Bear Glacier on the narrow winding road that shares the canyon floor with the Bear River. A stop here at a viewing spot for photographs. We have to cross the USA border on entering Hyder. We, in fact, just drive straight through, no questions asked. We booked into an RV camp here called Camp Runna-muck. Visited the national park bear viewing area, Fish Creek, there is a board walk here overlooking the creek from a safe height! Few people around hoping for sightings. Unfortunately, no bear to be seen, but the odd salmon going upstream. It’s a very scenic area even though and we saw bald eagles flying quite low beneath the trees. We talked to an English couple who live in Perth for a while. We go back into town and spend a bit of time in the “local”. As we left and just going back to camp for the night at the only intersection, we saw a bear and her two cubs crossing the road, as you do in Hyder. Mummy bear sent one cub up a tree, crossed the road with one cub and then came back for the other. So cameras at the ready and we were able to photograph procedure. This was not a figment of imagination seen through wine glasses, photographs are there to prove. So we could have saved our $5 admittance to Fish Creek where NO bears were seen and bought another glass of red where more bears may have been seen!!!! We left Hyder the following day, no guesses for where breakfast spot was to take place today – the beautiful Bear Glazier on Highway 37A.
Kitwanga River Area
Located on the intersection of Highway 37 and 16 at Zero miles. Beautiful warm sunny day today, this looks a pretty location. We book into a well set up RV park, also has a pressure washing facility for RVs. Poor Ronnie is in desperate need of a bath, she is a lighter shade of brown gathered from her many miles of gravel/dirt roads. As we will only be on good roads from hereon out, decide she should be a clean girl, then she won’t die of embarrassment when meeting other RV mates. This was quite an operation – but at the end of the day, a shining Ronnie emerged intact; after 36 minutes of water blasting, before and after photographs as proof.
We found a nice spot to park on grassed area near the trees, a very peaceful scenic setting, time for a relax, some nibbles, an ale/wine, photo slide show on TV, music and dinner.
Moricetown/Smithers
And off we go again the next morning. A beautiful summer’s day. Firstly, we went to the salmon fish counting installation about a mile down a bush track through the RV Park, pretty area, First Nation project, two FN guys there occupied in counting, marking and identifying salmon as they swam up stream. Our destination today is Smithers. We come across a small town called Moricetown, decided we would stop there for breakfast and parked overlooking the rapidly running river canyon there. A young First Nation lad asked us if we would like to buy some smoked salmon prepared by his grandmother. Off he went on his bike and returned five minutes later where the transaction took place. We then walked down to the rapids and watched salmon jumping and fishermen catching them in a basket on a huge pole. We clambered over the rocks watching all going on. Some FN guys had caught large salmon which lay in a small pool. We spent fair bit of time here watching the salmon jumping through the rapids, enjoying the sunshine. Before we left Noel bought a very large salmon for 10 bucks, strict instructions issued from the FN guy he bought it from, not to tell anybody he had sold it to us, it is illegal to sell their catch. It was cut into four large pieces, no guesses as to what dinner was to be this evening. The rest was frozen for future occasions.
We drove on to Smithers in the early afternoon. Scenery on road changed quite dramatically approximately 40 kays outside of Smithers, we are now in quite lush farming pastures. We park outside the museum at Smithers and look through. Fergus, the Museum curator, an Irishman - with a name like that where else would he hail from – gave us quite an informative narration about the area and early times there. A very good diorama of yesteryear was seen ranging from mining days to a lady’s sewing room. We explored the rather quaint town, during our walk through we came across a band playing; on closer inspection discovered that it was the local church youth group. The female singer had a great voice accompanied by a couple of guitarists and drummer (rock type music but with a “Jesus loves you” theme. There just happened to be “smokies” (very large barbecued smoked sausages in a roll) on offer, so that was lunch, a hot dog while being entertained.
Later we went down to the Smithers camping area and parked next to the river, the salmon is going to be cooked on the barbie here. We have a wander, chatted to a couple of folks here, relaxation time over drinkies while salmon is cooked. Delicious dinner, beautiful evening, full moon over the river. What could be nicer! Watched a couple of fly fishermen trying to hook salmon. But spawning salmon do not eat on their trek to the creeks they were born in several years before.
We had heard during the week on the radio that the Terry Fox Run/Walk/Cycle is on this weekend. Smithers just happened to have one leaving from outside the Museum on Sunday afternoon. We decide we’ll stay another night here and do the cycle leg of the event which was a 10 kay ride through town. We arrived along with many other locals taking part in the event complete with the large Ozzie flag. It was a fun afternoon meeting folks and taking part in the afternoon. Sandy was interviewed on the PA as the only OS visitor!
Prince George
Big drive day, 300 plus kays to PG (as the locals call Prince George.) We go through the small town of Telkwa not far out of Smithers. We pass a café that is advertising an American breakfast – third time lucky – they are open and cooking, chatting to the friendly waitress that served us. We go through the town of Houston, there is a huge saw milling operation here, in fact the largest operation in BC. We discover the location of the mill, find it and park outside and watch operations in full swing. Huge cranes, vehicles, thousands upon thousands of logs treated and untreated. Further along the finished product, millions of planks of wood stacked high. Also famous for the worlds largest fly rod.
We arrived at Prince George late afternoon. Parked close to the aquatic centre there. Had a delightful swim, beautiful to stretch out and relax in the tepid water after a long drive. We went to the cultural centre the next morning and wandered through the art gallery there. Some unusual exhibits on display.
Quesnel
Second visit here. Some of our route back to Agassi has to be the same as route out. We enjoyed our time here before so as it is a lovely summer’s day are happy to have some relaxation time here again. A walk through the main street, Front Street, we find the ice cream parlour from yesteryear, get two huge cones – and we only ordered single scoops – not sure what a large one would look like – river is across the road so we park ourselves on bench while we devour cones, very peaceful and pretty. Some photographic opportunities here where the two rivers meet, the Fraser and Quesnel. A walk along the river and then through a small shopping area, spent some time talking to Jan; a very pleasant English lady, who ran an antique/second hand shop.
We find a nice parking spot adjacent to the river walking track this evening, cooked dinner, digested nicely with a couple of reds, a very nice location for evening meal with full moon in a cloudless sky. A good day and nice evening.
Williams Lake
About 120 k drive on Highway ?? and arrive in Williams Lake around lunch time. We visit the a rodeo and ranch museum, photographs and biographies depicting many local cowboy/girls, theme rooms with saddles, clothing worn by stampede queens back in the mid thirties. A well laid out display; as in most of the other museums we have visited, each town does its best to portray their own history and supporting artifacts. We had a walk through town, replenished books from a second hand store. Walked over to the railway where there is a gallery and gift shop. Had a wander through. After getting a more detailed map of the area, we drove to walking trails and did an exercise stint down a fairly steep trail and up again. It was quite deserted. Good to stretch legs and elevate heart rate a little.
Lill We watched a light plane arrive and take off; it was a Britten Norman Islander. The barbecue came out, was ignited and some rather nice steaks found their way to our dinner plates this evening tenderized in a plastic bag with a hammer from the tool box.
Lillooet
Is today’s destination. A very spectacular drive on an extremely winding road the last 75 kays from Lillooet travelling about 1,000 feet above the Fraser River twisting and turning, hairpin bends, different shades of green, gold and brown on the steep mountainous hillside, quite unique and unusual. Stop here and there for photographs where we can although many are taken through the windscreen. Arrive at the historic town of Lillooet around 7 p.m and find a parking spot in the farmers market area. Had a look around and walk through town. Visited the museum and a jade store the next morning before leaving and the farmers market. Talked to a local who had taken her pets out – a rabbit in a plastic shopping basket and a cockateal perched on her shoulder. Cocky decided to make friends with me and found a finger to sit on for a while. You never know whose acquaintance you will meet while travelling!! She was born in Adelaide!! The smell of freshly baked bread led us into the baker’s shop where we bought fresh croissants for breakfast. Leave town later in the day and take a slow ride to Hells Gate, the canyon that runs over the Fraser River, at Boston Bar. Once again we go through spectacular scenery on a winding road. We take the airtram descent down to the viewing area, walk across the observation deck and suspension bridge, gold panning display, gift shop, film show etc. Although it was a nice sunny day it was quite windy on the bridge. We caught the last airtram back to the top just on closing time.
http://www.hellsgateairtram.com/
A little way past Boston Bar we parked and walked through a pretty wooded area to the old Alexandria Bridge. A suspension bridge built in 1928 and stayed in service as the only road crossing of the Fraser River for over 300 km of its length for over 40 years. A dual lane bridge replaced it in 1964 about 500 M downstream. Nice walk, we cross the railway line, locate the old bridge, walk across it, a quite magnificent structure. We drive on, destination tonight is the old town of Yale, the tiniest of places, just 150 inhabitants here. We walked down to the river, park next to the museum and the railway line. Very long goods trains in excess of 100 carriages pass at fairly regular intervals. This is going to be an interesting night!!! Next morning we visit the old museum and very old now disused church. A guided tour through the outside area where three large tents are set up in the museum yard depicting early time, a bar, a house and a shop next to the church.
We left Yale and headed out towards Hope for breakfast. Found scenic location by lake. Had a walk around and then spent half an hour or so casting a line – first time I’ve fished or tried to – however, did not provide anything for dinner table.
Hope
We find a nice place to park Ronnie for the evening and then go out for dinner. Not a large town, but very picturesque with literally hundreds of giant redwoods dotted all thru town. The youngest of them would have been here before the town existed. Next morning it was decided aq walk downtown and find a breakfast spot. A small café / bakery provided njust that.
By lunchtime we headed for the Farm at Agassiz judt 40 kms away. A little bit rainy. The paddocks are very green indicating the rain of the last few weeks.
8883 kilometres and just over 6 weeks of travel. Ultra enjoyable and quite an adventure.
Thank you Sandy.
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Highlights of Week Five .................. Seaward, Anchorage, Sutton, Tok and Chicken in Alaska/ Dawson City, Yukon Province Canada
Seward
On arrival at Seward, we visited the Alaska Sea Life Centre which is somewhat similar to Sea World in Oz. Well laid out and displayed. Booked into the Seward Marathon Camping Ground overlooking the waters of Resurrection Bay and the mountains across the inlet. The weather has changed on us after the beautiful day yesterday. However, there is still a certain beauty to the mountainous background shrouded in mist and partly obscured by clouds. Sometimes the clouds lift a little and more of the peaks come into view – a constantly changing scene. We don coats, hats, umbrella and take a walk along by the water to have a nose around and possibly book a cruise out into the bay tomorrow to see the glaciers and wild life. However, because of the bad weather there is no certainty that any boats will be leaving. That turned out to be the case, we woke to another rainy day and trips were cancelled but a possibility of a trip the following day. We found a nice scenic area to park and had some relaxation time, reading, computer time waiting for the weather to ease.
When rain eased off we decided we would do the scenic walk to Exit Glacier. A very rugged walk along a track out to the glacier. But wow how beautiful when we finally reached it, huge, ridged with blue, an awesome sight.
On Good Friday 1964, a 9.2 Richter earthquake with a centre about 80 miles out to sea from Seward occurred. The harbour side and railway yard sunk 3 M below the normal sea level and a 40 foot tidal surge took care of every house and building. Extensive human death toll and it was start from square one for the Seward that we see today.
http://www.vibrationdata.com/earthquakes/alaska.htm
Tonight’s parking spot was outside the Seward Museum, happen to get a wifi connection here, so good spot to park. The next day there is no improvement in the weather but we go along to the cruise office to find out if there are any cruises happening. There is, a shorter one but just into the Resurrection Bay area and not out to the Atikiatic Glacier. We decided we’ll do this one and what a great day we had on a very nice large and powerful catamaran viewing through the cosy interior windows although on occasions we ventured out when there was something interesting to see. A great commentary along the way. We saw sea otters, whales, seals, puffins, sea eagles. A very nice salmon bake lunch was provided for us at a resort on Fox Island. A great day. On return we had a poke around the Seward Museum (how can we go anywhere without a look in a museum). Just enough time to look through before it closed. And then we drove a short distance out of Seward, found a great parking spot for the night on Exit Glacier Road beside the turbulent river.
Drove to downtown Anchorage, post office and then we did a grocery shop in Fred Meyers before getting on the road. We drove as far as a tiny little town called Sutton. There is a pub, a café and a library in town. Okay, time for a beer. Barman and other locals quite uncommunicative – strangers in town. My wine was served in what looked like a vegemite glass and tasted like ribena and not quite up to usual standards. The cardboard box back in Ronnie is a much better choice so back to the van for a half decent glass. We have parked in the local fire station tonight – so if we catch on fire, help won’t be too far away. It is quite deserted. We can’t get WiFi initially so Noel decided to get the push bike out and have a nose around to see what’s in town and where we can steal some from. It didn’t take long, library was located. Usually get connections from libraries – and we did from where we were parked!!. Checked our mails etc and ate dinner, watched some TV before turning in for the night. We noticed the café opposite advertised an all day breakfast. We’ll try it in the morning before hitting the road – no go, breakfast isn’t served till lunch time. Second time now we’ve missed breakfast at a café. Perhaps we’ll strike lucky before end of the trip.
Tok
Destination today is the Sourdough RV Camp site at Tok. We have visited Tok on our outward journey. We were recommended this camp site by somebody along the way, there is entertainment here at night by all accounts. Well, there is during the season but the season is over now and there are very few people at the site. The Husband of the couple that own the Camp died as a result of a snowmobile accident in April, so it was in decline apparently. However, we stay there, opportunity to do laundry. Noel repaired his brand new CPAT machine which he forgot to change over to the other setting; because we were running on power and it blew a fuse. We have a walk around the site, talk to a couple of folks here and the camp ground assistants who gave us some information on road conditions for our next proposed stop.
.
Chicken
On road to Chicken today; so called because there used to be a lot of ptartigan there, hard to pronounce so they called it Chicken instead. Hmmm. First 80 km is paved then about 10 kay of crook gravel and then a bit more paved and the final 3 kays into the “village” is gravel/dirt road, poor Ronnie gets a dreadful bumping. It is a corrugated very rough road. Booked in to RV park. It is a nice sunny day. We go for a walk along the river for about 2 kays, lots of old mining equipment, crossed the creek a couple of times. There is an area where you can gold pan in “good” dirt; that they bring in from their claim, for $10. Noel spent a bit of time here trying to find a nugget or two. We talked to a Pommy couple, Carol and Jim, for a while. I left Noel gold panning and went back to the van and started some dinner preparations, chowder is on the menu tonight. A German family are parked next door, they were barbequing their halibut catch but could speak little English. We could see a some trucks during the evening coming along the highway. I would NOT like to drive that road in the dark.
http://explorenorth.com/alaska/chicken.html
Dawson City
After leaving Chicken we drove approximately 80 kays on a road called The Top of the World Highway and just formed dirt. Magnificent scenery. We were 4,200 feet above sea level. We stopped at a little gift shop at the end of this road, had a look around, bought some morning tea there and Noel bought a spoon for his favorite auntie. We then drive on 6 kays on more dirt/gravel road before reaching Boundary – and as it sounds, we cross into Canada so have to go through passport control at the joint American/Canadian border. Passport officer was only interested in how much booze we had, what gifts had been purchased, did we have any firearms etc. Not a mention of the fruit we had cut up and made into fruit salad earlier in the morning. We had forgotten the fruit rule on crossing borders when we’d done the recent grocery shop. We continued on the Top of the World Highway and its spectacularly desolate and magnificent vistas and finally reaching our destination of Dawson City. The only way to get there is by the free ferry which crosses the Yukon River. We watch it offload its cargo on Dawson City side of the river, it then returns and we drive Ronnie on, there were around 8 other cars as well as us. Just a short trip over the river and we arrive at Dawson City. We park outside the Info Centre and get the guides on the show yourself the old town. Not that old, only first trod on by whitefella in 1898 and first buildings; still there now, from 1901. Took a bike ride around and saw everything. Noel had his All Australian AFL Guernsey on and we were riding slowly up a street and a young female voice yells out, “are you Aussies”? Kim from Townsville and her mate from Newcastle worked in one of the local residential hotels. Had a good yarn. In mid season, maybe as many as a dozen tourist coaches overnight here before further destroying the road surface of the Top of The World Highway with their airbag suspensions!!
Parked opposite the library in a vacant lot and went to all 3 shows at Diamond Tooth Gertie’s Review that night!!
We had heard that the northern lights had given a good display the night before when sky had been quite clear of cloud. So in a haze after the last show, set an alarm to drive from the town at 1200 feet up to the peak of the Dome at 2900 feet at 2.30am. Must have had a small prob with my vision at midnight as alarm had not gone off by 3.45, so hopped into driving seat from bed and headed up the hill in the dark!! The trip down in daylight showed how magnificent a piece of road it was!!! Best to do some roads in the dark!! Got up on top and blowing like crazy and a fair bit of cloud. Was not really sure which direction North was.. If I was more alert, I would have taken note of what Tom Tom could have told me if he/she was turned on!! So with the experience behind us, we went to sleep again on top of the mountain!! (But in the warm comfort of Ronnie naturally)!!!!
http://www.dawsoncity.ca/
So it was up the famous Bonanza Creek; where the famous and incredibly rich gold strikes were made 110 years ago.
We did the tour of the number 4 dredge Sue was our guide – and a very competent and informative one at that – she had had 15 years personal experience mining with her husband on a small claim; therefore she knew all there was to know about the subject and number 4 dredge in particular. The tour took us throughout the 3200 ton wooden hulled gold getter. It was powered by local hydro electricity. Not unlike the PNG dredges. It was in full operation till late 60’s when a dam upstream broke and swamped it in 20 feet of silt. A Government funded operation by the Canadian Army refloated it and cleaned it out. After the tour we went into a tent set up where there was a short video which we watched with other tour participants. We then drove on a short distance to claim number 6 which is owned by the Klondike Visitors Association and allows visitors to dig and pan. Noel amused himself looking for gold while lunch was prepared. Two tiny bits of colour!!
After lunch we decided to have a look around an historic cottage, a guided tour was on at 2 p.m. When we arrived we were asked why were we not on the free cruise with accompanying turkey lunch on the big tourist cataramaran which takes place once a year and just happened to be today. We had approximately 15 minutes to get there, park and show up. We just made it. And a very comfortable catamaran it was too – 98 foot long 100 tonne and manufactured in Fremantle!! We sat back and enjoyed some commentary, free beverages and lunch for a three hour cruise up the Yukon River and back.
On return we parked beside the river and watched a slide show of our most recent photos during a bit of relaxation time. As our tickets to the Diamond Tooth Gertie show gave us free admission for a second night, we decided we’d go for a second bash and wander through the casino watching some of the very serious poker games that were taking place.
An early departure next morning as there was a 600km trip to Whitehorse after a fuel fill up.
(
On arrival at Seward, we visited the Alaska Sea Life Centre which is somewhat similar to Sea World in Oz. Well laid out and displayed. Booked into the Seward Marathon Camping Ground overlooking the waters of Resurrection Bay and the mountains across the inlet. The weather has changed on us after the beautiful day yesterday. However, there is still a certain beauty to the mountainous background shrouded in mist and partly obscured by clouds. Sometimes the clouds lift a little and more of the peaks come into view – a constantly changing scene. We don coats, hats, umbrella and take a walk along by the water to have a nose around and possibly book a cruise out into the bay tomorrow to see the glaciers and wild life. However, because of the bad weather there is no certainty that any boats will be leaving. That turned out to be the case, we woke to another rainy day and trips were cancelled but a possibility of a trip the following day. We found a nice scenic area to park and had some relaxation time, reading, computer time waiting for the weather to ease.
When rain eased off we decided we would do the scenic walk to Exit Glacier. A very rugged walk along a track out to the glacier. But wow how beautiful when we finally reached it, huge, ridged with blue, an awesome sight.
On Good Friday 1964, a 9.2 Richter earthquake with a centre about 80 miles out to sea from Seward occurred. The harbour side and railway yard sunk 3 M below the normal sea level and a 40 foot tidal surge took care of every house and building. Extensive human death toll and it was start from square one for the Seward that we see today.
http://www.vibrationdata.com/earthquakes/alaska.htm
Tonight’s parking spot was outside the Seward Museum, happen to get a wifi connection here, so good spot to park. The next day there is no improvement in the weather but we go along to the cruise office to find out if there are any cruises happening. There is, a shorter one but just into the Resurrection Bay area and not out to the Atikiatic Glacier. We decided we’ll do this one and what a great day we had on a very nice large and powerful catamaran viewing through the cosy interior windows although on occasions we ventured out when there was something interesting to see. A great commentary along the way. We saw sea otters, whales, seals, puffins, sea eagles. A very nice salmon bake lunch was provided for us at a resort on Fox Island. A great day. On return we had a poke around the Seward Museum (how can we go anywhere without a look in a museum). Just enough time to look through before it closed. And then we drove a short distance out of Seward, found a great parking spot for the night on Exit Glacier Road beside the turbulent river.
Drove to downtown Anchorage, post office and then we did a grocery shop in Fred Meyers before getting on the road. We drove as far as a tiny little town called Sutton. There is a pub, a café and a library in town. Okay, time for a beer. Barman and other locals quite uncommunicative – strangers in town. My wine was served in what looked like a vegemite glass and tasted like ribena and not quite up to usual standards. The cardboard box back in Ronnie is a much better choice so back to the van for a half decent glass. We have parked in the local fire station tonight – so if we catch on fire, help won’t be too far away. It is quite deserted. We can’t get WiFi initially so Noel decided to get the push bike out and have a nose around to see what’s in town and where we can steal some from. It didn’t take long, library was located. Usually get connections from libraries – and we did from where we were parked!!. Checked our mails etc and ate dinner, watched some TV before turning in for the night. We noticed the café opposite advertised an all day breakfast. We’ll try it in the morning before hitting the road – no go, breakfast isn’t served till lunch time. Second time now we’ve missed breakfast at a café. Perhaps we’ll strike lucky before end of the trip.
Tok
Destination today is the Sourdough RV Camp site at Tok. We have visited Tok on our outward journey. We were recommended this camp site by somebody along the way, there is entertainment here at night by all accounts. Well, there is during the season but the season is over now and there are very few people at the site. The Husband of the couple that own the Camp died as a result of a snowmobile accident in April, so it was in decline apparently. However, we stay there, opportunity to do laundry. Noel repaired his brand new CPAT machine which he forgot to change over to the other setting; because we were running on power and it blew a fuse. We have a walk around the site, talk to a couple of folks here and the camp ground assistants who gave us some information on road conditions for our next proposed stop.
.
Chicken
On road to Chicken today; so called because there used to be a lot of ptartigan there, hard to pronounce so they called it Chicken instead. Hmmm. First 80 km is paved then about 10 kay of crook gravel and then a bit more paved and the final 3 kays into the “village” is gravel/dirt road, poor Ronnie gets a dreadful bumping. It is a corrugated very rough road. Booked in to RV park. It is a nice sunny day. We go for a walk along the river for about 2 kays, lots of old mining equipment, crossed the creek a couple of times. There is an area where you can gold pan in “good” dirt; that they bring in from their claim, for $10. Noel spent a bit of time here trying to find a nugget or two. We talked to a Pommy couple, Carol and Jim, for a while. I left Noel gold panning and went back to the van and started some dinner preparations, chowder is on the menu tonight. A German family are parked next door, they were barbequing their halibut catch but could speak little English. We could see a some trucks during the evening coming along the highway. I would NOT like to drive that road in the dark.
http://explorenorth.com/alaska/chicken.html
Dawson City
After leaving Chicken we drove approximately 80 kays on a road called The Top of the World Highway and just formed dirt. Magnificent scenery. We were 4,200 feet above sea level. We stopped at a little gift shop at the end of this road, had a look around, bought some morning tea there and Noel bought a spoon for his favorite auntie. We then drive on 6 kays on more dirt/gravel road before reaching Boundary – and as it sounds, we cross into Canada so have to go through passport control at the joint American/Canadian border. Passport officer was only interested in how much booze we had, what gifts had been purchased, did we have any firearms etc. Not a mention of the fruit we had cut up and made into fruit salad earlier in the morning. We had forgotten the fruit rule on crossing borders when we’d done the recent grocery shop. We continued on the Top of the World Highway and its spectacularly desolate and magnificent vistas and finally reaching our destination of Dawson City. The only way to get there is by the free ferry which crosses the Yukon River. We watch it offload its cargo on Dawson City side of the river, it then returns and we drive Ronnie on, there were around 8 other cars as well as us. Just a short trip over the river and we arrive at Dawson City. We park outside the Info Centre and get the guides on the show yourself the old town. Not that old, only first trod on by whitefella in 1898 and first buildings; still there now, from 1901. Took a bike ride around and saw everything. Noel had his All Australian AFL Guernsey on and we were riding slowly up a street and a young female voice yells out, “are you Aussies”? Kim from Townsville and her mate from Newcastle worked in one of the local residential hotels. Had a good yarn. In mid season, maybe as many as a dozen tourist coaches overnight here before further destroying the road surface of the Top of The World Highway with their airbag suspensions!!
Parked opposite the library in a vacant lot and went to all 3 shows at Diamond Tooth Gertie’s Review that night!!
We had heard that the northern lights had given a good display the night before when sky had been quite clear of cloud. So in a haze after the last show, set an alarm to drive from the town at 1200 feet up to the peak of the Dome at 2900 feet at 2.30am. Must have had a small prob with my vision at midnight as alarm had not gone off by 3.45, so hopped into driving seat from bed and headed up the hill in the dark!! The trip down in daylight showed how magnificent a piece of road it was!!! Best to do some roads in the dark!! Got up on top and blowing like crazy and a fair bit of cloud. Was not really sure which direction North was.. If I was more alert, I would have taken note of what Tom Tom could have told me if he/she was turned on!! So with the experience behind us, we went to sleep again on top of the mountain!! (But in the warm comfort of Ronnie naturally)!!!!
http://www.dawsoncity.ca/
So it was up the famous Bonanza Creek; where the famous and incredibly rich gold strikes were made 110 years ago.
We did the tour of the number 4 dredge Sue was our guide – and a very competent and informative one at that – she had had 15 years personal experience mining with her husband on a small claim; therefore she knew all there was to know about the subject and number 4 dredge in particular. The tour took us throughout the 3200 ton wooden hulled gold getter. It was powered by local hydro electricity. Not unlike the PNG dredges. It was in full operation till late 60’s when a dam upstream broke and swamped it in 20 feet of silt. A Government funded operation by the Canadian Army refloated it and cleaned it out. After the tour we went into a tent set up where there was a short video which we watched with other tour participants. We then drove on a short distance to claim number 6 which is owned by the Klondike Visitors Association and allows visitors to dig and pan. Noel amused himself looking for gold while lunch was prepared. Two tiny bits of colour!!
After lunch we decided to have a look around an historic cottage, a guided tour was on at 2 p.m. When we arrived we were asked why were we not on the free cruise with accompanying turkey lunch on the big tourist cataramaran which takes place once a year and just happened to be today. We had approximately 15 minutes to get there, park and show up. We just made it. And a very comfortable catamaran it was too – 98 foot long 100 tonne and manufactured in Fremantle!! We sat back and enjoyed some commentary, free beverages and lunch for a three hour cruise up the Yukon River and back.
On return we parked beside the river and watched a slide show of our most recent photos during a bit of relaxation time. As our tickets to the Diamond Tooth Gertie show gave us free admission for a second night, we decided we’d go for a second bash and wander through the casino watching some of the very serious poker games that were taking place.
An early departure next morning as there was a 600km trip to Whitehorse after a fuel fill up.
(
Friday, September 5, 2008
Fairbanks/Denali/Trappers Creek/Talkeetna/Wasilla/Palmer
The Fourth Week
24/25th August
We arrive in the second biggest city of Alaska – Fairbanks - on a bright sunny afternoon, locate the log cabin visitor centre located on the Chena River and pick up information of points of interest here. After talking to a helpful staff member and receiving information we decided to have an ale; on his advice and recommendation, in the local pub across the river, from the centre, in a very old group of buildings. A good move and nice to relax after a few hours of driving time and plan activities for the rest of the day. We decide to visit the acclaimed Pioneer Park, on arrival we discover that we can overnight the RV there, a pleasant enough location, so this will be home for the next two nights.
The park is set in a 44 acre facility and offers a variety of activities relating to the history of interior Alaska. It houses museums, gold rush town, pioneer cabins, a native village, a pioneer air museum (a must naturally), an art gallery, the SS Nenana, an old paddle steamer, all these exhibits encompassing a snapshot of the lives of the early pioneers who came to Fairbanks in about 1901 seeking their fortunes. We spend time wandering through the park, discover there is an hour of live entertainment nightly at the gazebo. Tonight there is a story telling session at 7 p.m. So an entertaining hour spent listening to some amusing yarns. Back to Ronnie for dinner and over to the park to the palace theatre where we enjoy a very good burlesque style show, theatre setting is well done in the theme of olden times and décor. Very entertaining and interesting day.
http://www.co.fairbanks.ak.us/ParksandRecreation/PioneerPark/attractions/attractions.htm
The next morning we drive over to the University of Fairbanks to visit the museum and learning centre. The university itself is quite huge, we eventually discover the museum and spend large part of the day here, many exhibits and headset that allows an audio narration of everything on display. The art gallery there is funded by a very generous benefactor. A lady who owned a coal mine, and the mine is still operated by her ancestors 80 years on. About 1 million tonnes a year.
http://www.uaf.edu/museum/
We stay another night in the Pioneer Village car park, more looking around the village. The gazebo night tonight was an hour of country style music, most enjoyable. We finished the day with a round of put put golf which was fun.
26th August
We leave Fairbanks today, on road towards Anchorage. Tonight we stop at Denali Rainbow Village park which is some 200 kays from Fairbanks, and a delightful little town full of log cabins, lots of tourists, stunning scenery once again seen en route. Denali is also the name of the immense national park here. The beautiful Alaska Mountain Range and Mount McKinley sits on the horizon here. Pure Magic. We pull into an RV site and decide we will stay there for two nights and explore the national park here.
It’s a nice day so decide we’ll explore by bike, lovely ride through beautiful scenery to the visitor centre stopping on the way to watch some folks go off on a rafting expedition along the river. Our cycle ride is quite delightful through the lush forest, quite hilly in places so a good exercise stint as well seeing everything at a slower pace and in close proximity as opposed to driver/passenger seats in Ronnie.
We visit the Murie Science Centre. http://www.alaskageographic.org/static/420/mslc-science-and-research
Back on the bikes, we carry them across the railway line and ride past the air strip, ride in, and the National Parks Service have the best STOL machines on the tie down. Meet a pilot who just came in via his C185; retired United captain with a cabin in Willow about 80 nautical away. Doing a little day trip to pass the time!
We continue the ride and find a trail that leads to Horseshoe Lake, secure the bikes and do the hike down to the lake. We were hoping we may have seen some wildlife here, our only sighting was a ground squirrel collecting nuts for the winter. Noel helped him out with a handful, his good deed for the day. Squirrel said ta and we went on our way. Evidence of beavers at the lake area where they had constructed a 30 metre dam/lodge. Thus the saying, “working like a beaver” becomes a reality. Walk back to the bikes and cycle back – well timed as it started to rain just as we got back to Rocinante. After lunch and a rest we wander through the village and gift shops etc.
27th August
Leave Denali. En route to Trappers Creek, we park and take a 4 k walk to Savage River. A good walk. Only wildlife sighting is an Arctic Ground Squirrel. Mount McKinlay mountain range here. 17 highest mountains in the US are in this Alaskan Range in front of us. Mt McKinlay at 20,400, being the tallest.
We pull in to Trappers Creek later in the day and drive past Wal-Mike’s, the second hand shop to end all second hand shops from a polar bear skin to farm machinery and a tame caribou in the front yard! No doors on any of the display areas, if Mike put everything away at the end of the day, it would take him till the next day to start bringing it out again! http://twopluseight.blogspot.com/2008/08/travelling-parks-highway-for-friday.html
Decide to drive on and find camp site for the night. En route we pass a pub in the middle of nowhere, Big Su Lodge & Cabins, so named because the Susitna River runs through this area. We stop for a beer in the very spacious and rugged Bar. Got talking to the locals including the owners of the pub who were quite happy for us to park here for the night; a good move not to drive on after imbibing for an hour or so. Patricia, the bar lady, chatted to us, what a life she has led. Just retired from the military after 20 years. She held the rank of Commander in the Ranger Force and had just returned from 4 years service in Iraq and a year in Afghanistan where she was injured quite badly – she was shot – and that’s pretty bad. She even showed us her badly scarred back. We have met so many people from different walks of life on this trip!! Bears inhabit this area – but none seen or heard. http://www.bigsulodge.com/pokerrundetails.html
28th August
On the road again, our drive today is to Talkeetna. Lovely quaint little town here, many log cabins, main street is like a glimpse into the past. Talkeetna is the base for many of the climbing expeditions that challenge Mt McKinley in the summer months, the climbing season being mid May to July and over 1000 people attempt to climb McKinley each year during the climbing season. Very busy town, friendly locals and lots of tourists here. We drive on to Wasilla, approximately 95 k outside of Anchorage. Quite a large city, our overnight stop for today. We visit the headquarters of the Iditarod Sled Dogs Race, watched part of a film that was showing about the race and also saw dogs outside. http://www.iditarod.com/
29th August
Alaskan Transportation Museum is just on the outskirts of Wasilla. Now a famous City because John McCain’s running mate for Vice Presidential position if the Republicans win in November, is currently the Governor of Alaska and was until a year ago the Mayor of Wasilla. Governor Sarah Palin is a very popular lady in Alaska and will be a great boost to McCain’s race for President. Back to the Museum, 20 acres with everything from dog sleds to Diesel locos! Hearses to hay rakes. Plenty of planes from two DC3’s to a Fairchild C123 in mint nick.
We have discovered the Alaskan State Fair is on this week at Palmer, only 20 kays away. It is August and we’ve missed the Ekka, so decide we’ll go have a fair day. We drive into the fair car park, there are hundreds of RVs parked here – and for a fee of 15 bucks can stay the night. Good one. This is going to be home tonight. A great afternoon and evening walking around, lots of animals (just like the Ekka), music, we watched a great foursome country style music. In and out of the various exhibits, the Anchorage Amateur Radio Club had a great display and a good yarn was had!! Plenty of visiting tips for us travelers. Alaskan State Troopers had a big display and I had my photo taken with two of them. One just happened to be the Boss of Alaskan CIB and his 2 IC!!! They had their uniform Jackets on, so they were good for a pix! The fireworks at 10.15 PM just as the sun had set was a great way to end the day. I will expand on the Rat Racing at a later time over a beer! http://www.alaskastatefair.org/2008/index.html
30th August
We leave Palmer and head into Anchorage. Beautiful sunny day so after some shopping essentials we decide to drive on towards Seward where we hope to take a boat trip out to the glacier. We get as far as Bird Point on the Scenic Byway and meet Ken the Telescope Man on the viewing platforms that overlook the wide inlet from the ocean. It turns out that today is the best day for the Bore; a wave of water that races at about 12kmph up the inlet, since early July. At precisely 12 minutes to 5pm, a 1 metre wave is racing up the inlet rapidly covering the dry tidal flats as the 30 plus foot tide comes in. Foolhardy have surfed and windsurfed it. Captain James Cook named the inlet 200 odd years ago as Turnaround Inlet. Back to Ken. His magnificent 200mm mirror telescope and numerous lenses, allow him to comb the hill and pick up sightings of mountain goat and bear from the viewing platform. Clearly viewing a mountain goat munching on lichen over 4 miles away is a sight to behold. The closest was about 3 kays away near the top of the 3000’ hill beside us. He is a Mining supplies businessman during the week and his hobby is viewing wildlife at this spot and allowing people to see them. No money involved. He said it was his way to keep his blood pressure down!! We gave Ken a lapel pin of Australia with a kangaroo on it.
We continue our drive on towards Seward, most beautiful evening, dappled sunshine on the lush countryside and mountains. We pass a wild life centre, we’d had a recommendation to stop here so we drive in and see bear, bison, caribou, fox, bald eagle. Although the animal areas are secure to the public there is heaps of room for them to roam in a natural environment. Back to Ronnie and to look for a spot to park for the evening. Just ambling along when we came across a huge glacier (as you do) so we followed the road around to a good viewing point for photos. In fact we got some good ones from the roof of Ronnie. Eventually we found a great spot to camp for the night on a riverside bush track. Few other campers there and a nice bbq for dinner.
A week of varied adventures!!!
24/25th August
We arrive in the second biggest city of Alaska – Fairbanks - on a bright sunny afternoon, locate the log cabin visitor centre located on the Chena River and pick up information of points of interest here. After talking to a helpful staff member and receiving information we decided to have an ale; on his advice and recommendation, in the local pub across the river, from the centre, in a very old group of buildings. A good move and nice to relax after a few hours of driving time and plan activities for the rest of the day. We decide to visit the acclaimed Pioneer Park, on arrival we discover that we can overnight the RV there, a pleasant enough location, so this will be home for the next two nights.
The park is set in a 44 acre facility and offers a variety of activities relating to the history of interior Alaska. It houses museums, gold rush town, pioneer cabins, a native village, a pioneer air museum (a must naturally), an art gallery, the SS Nenana, an old paddle steamer, all these exhibits encompassing a snapshot of the lives of the early pioneers who came to Fairbanks in about 1901 seeking their fortunes. We spend time wandering through the park, discover there is an hour of live entertainment nightly at the gazebo. Tonight there is a story telling session at 7 p.m. So an entertaining hour spent listening to some amusing yarns. Back to Ronnie for dinner and over to the park to the palace theatre where we enjoy a very good burlesque style show, theatre setting is well done in the theme of olden times and décor. Very entertaining and interesting day.
http://www.co.fairbanks.ak.us/ParksandRecreation/PioneerPark/attractions/attractions.htm
The next morning we drive over to the University of Fairbanks to visit the museum and learning centre. The university itself is quite huge, we eventually discover the museum and spend large part of the day here, many exhibits and headset that allows an audio narration of everything on display. The art gallery there is funded by a very generous benefactor. A lady who owned a coal mine, and the mine is still operated by her ancestors 80 years on. About 1 million tonnes a year.
http://www.uaf.edu/museum/
We stay another night in the Pioneer Village car park, more looking around the village. The gazebo night tonight was an hour of country style music, most enjoyable. We finished the day with a round of put put golf which was fun.
26th August
We leave Fairbanks today, on road towards Anchorage. Tonight we stop at Denali Rainbow Village park which is some 200 kays from Fairbanks, and a delightful little town full of log cabins, lots of tourists, stunning scenery once again seen en route. Denali is also the name of the immense national park here. The beautiful Alaska Mountain Range and Mount McKinley sits on the horizon here. Pure Magic. We pull into an RV site and decide we will stay there for two nights and explore the national park here.
It’s a nice day so decide we’ll explore by bike, lovely ride through beautiful scenery to the visitor centre stopping on the way to watch some folks go off on a rafting expedition along the river. Our cycle ride is quite delightful through the lush forest, quite hilly in places so a good exercise stint as well seeing everything at a slower pace and in close proximity as opposed to driver/passenger seats in Ronnie.
We visit the Murie Science Centre. http://www.alaskageographic.org/static/420/mslc-science-and-research
Back on the bikes, we carry them across the railway line and ride past the air strip, ride in, and the National Parks Service have the best STOL machines on the tie down. Meet a pilot who just came in via his C185; retired United captain with a cabin in Willow about 80 nautical away. Doing a little day trip to pass the time!
We continue the ride and find a trail that leads to Horseshoe Lake, secure the bikes and do the hike down to the lake. We were hoping we may have seen some wildlife here, our only sighting was a ground squirrel collecting nuts for the winter. Noel helped him out with a handful, his good deed for the day. Squirrel said ta and we went on our way. Evidence of beavers at the lake area where they had constructed a 30 metre dam/lodge. Thus the saying, “working like a beaver” becomes a reality. Walk back to the bikes and cycle back – well timed as it started to rain just as we got back to Rocinante. After lunch and a rest we wander through the village and gift shops etc.
27th August
Leave Denali. En route to Trappers Creek, we park and take a 4 k walk to Savage River. A good walk. Only wildlife sighting is an Arctic Ground Squirrel. Mount McKinlay mountain range here. 17 highest mountains in the US are in this Alaskan Range in front of us. Mt McKinlay at 20,400, being the tallest.
We pull in to Trappers Creek later in the day and drive past Wal-Mike’s, the second hand shop to end all second hand shops from a polar bear skin to farm machinery and a tame caribou in the front yard! No doors on any of the display areas, if Mike put everything away at the end of the day, it would take him till the next day to start bringing it out again! http://twopluseight.blogspot.com/2008/08/travelling-parks-highway-for-friday.html
Decide to drive on and find camp site for the night. En route we pass a pub in the middle of nowhere, Big Su Lodge & Cabins, so named because the Susitna River runs through this area. We stop for a beer in the very spacious and rugged Bar. Got talking to the locals including the owners of the pub who were quite happy for us to park here for the night; a good move not to drive on after imbibing for an hour or so. Patricia, the bar lady, chatted to us, what a life she has led. Just retired from the military after 20 years. She held the rank of Commander in the Ranger Force and had just returned from 4 years service in Iraq and a year in Afghanistan where she was injured quite badly – she was shot – and that’s pretty bad. She even showed us her badly scarred back. We have met so many people from different walks of life on this trip!! Bears inhabit this area – but none seen or heard. http://www.bigsulodge.com/pokerrundetails.html
28th August
On the road again, our drive today is to Talkeetna. Lovely quaint little town here, many log cabins, main street is like a glimpse into the past. Talkeetna is the base for many of the climbing expeditions that challenge Mt McKinley in the summer months, the climbing season being mid May to July and over 1000 people attempt to climb McKinley each year during the climbing season. Very busy town, friendly locals and lots of tourists here. We drive on to Wasilla, approximately 95 k outside of Anchorage. Quite a large city, our overnight stop for today. We visit the headquarters of the Iditarod Sled Dogs Race, watched part of a film that was showing about the race and also saw dogs outside. http://www.iditarod.com/
29th August
Alaskan Transportation Museum is just on the outskirts of Wasilla. Now a famous City because John McCain’s running mate for Vice Presidential position if the Republicans win in November, is currently the Governor of Alaska and was until a year ago the Mayor of Wasilla. Governor Sarah Palin is a very popular lady in Alaska and will be a great boost to McCain’s race for President. Back to the Museum, 20 acres with everything from dog sleds to Diesel locos! Hearses to hay rakes. Plenty of planes from two DC3’s to a Fairchild C123 in mint nick.
We have discovered the Alaskan State Fair is on this week at Palmer, only 20 kays away. It is August and we’ve missed the Ekka, so decide we’ll go have a fair day. We drive into the fair car park, there are hundreds of RVs parked here – and for a fee of 15 bucks can stay the night. Good one. This is going to be home tonight. A great afternoon and evening walking around, lots of animals (just like the Ekka), music, we watched a great foursome country style music. In and out of the various exhibits, the Anchorage Amateur Radio Club had a great display and a good yarn was had!! Plenty of visiting tips for us travelers. Alaskan State Troopers had a big display and I had my photo taken with two of them. One just happened to be the Boss of Alaskan CIB and his 2 IC!!! They had their uniform Jackets on, so they were good for a pix! The fireworks at 10.15 PM just as the sun had set was a great way to end the day. I will expand on the Rat Racing at a later time over a beer! http://www.alaskastatefair.org/2008/index.html
30th August
We leave Palmer and head into Anchorage. Beautiful sunny day so after some shopping essentials we decide to drive on towards Seward where we hope to take a boat trip out to the glacier. We get as far as Bird Point on the Scenic Byway and meet Ken the Telescope Man on the viewing platforms that overlook the wide inlet from the ocean. It turns out that today is the best day for the Bore; a wave of water that races at about 12kmph up the inlet, since early July. At precisely 12 minutes to 5pm, a 1 metre wave is racing up the inlet rapidly covering the dry tidal flats as the 30 plus foot tide comes in. Foolhardy have surfed and windsurfed it. Captain James Cook named the inlet 200 odd years ago as Turnaround Inlet. Back to Ken. His magnificent 200mm mirror telescope and numerous lenses, allow him to comb the hill and pick up sightings of mountain goat and bear from the viewing platform. Clearly viewing a mountain goat munching on lichen over 4 miles away is a sight to behold. The closest was about 3 kays away near the top of the 3000’ hill beside us. He is a Mining supplies businessman during the week and his hobby is viewing wildlife at this spot and allowing people to see them. No money involved. He said it was his way to keep his blood pressure down!! We gave Ken a lapel pin of Australia with a kangaroo on it.
We continue our drive on towards Seward, most beautiful evening, dappled sunshine on the lush countryside and mountains. We pass a wild life centre, we’d had a recommendation to stop here so we drive in and see bear, bison, caribou, fox, bald eagle. Although the animal areas are secure to the public there is heaps of room for them to roam in a natural environment. Back to Ronnie and to look for a spot to park for the evening. Just ambling along when we came across a huge glacier (as you do) so we followed the road around to a good viewing point for photos. In fact we got some good ones from the roof of Ronnie. Eventually we found a great spot to camp for the night on a riverside bush track. Few other campers there and a nice bbq for dinner.
A week of varied adventures!!!
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